Healthy Aging vs Inflammaging

I became an expert in healthy aging for skin in a roundabout way. After almost 20 years of practicing dental hygiene, I decided to enter the world of esthetics. I wanted to provide education and treatments where my clients could relax and still get results that they love.

A Rude Awakening

In the beginning, entering the world of beauty was a nightmare! It felt like being left in the middle of a desert and everything that looked great was really a mirage that faded quickly. During the year that I worked in a day spa I was convinced that something was not quite right. At that time, I did not have the education to completely understand what was happening. All I knew was that my 50 year-old skin (at that time) looked way healthier than the 30 - 40 year-olds getting treatments done that involved aggressively resurfacing their skin. After the treatments, they were educated to use products on a daily basis that also worked to resurface their skin. No wonder there was no “glow” to their skin! Their barrier was completely destroyed! They constantly had low-grade inflammation happening in their skin, which was making them look way older than they actually were.

Inflammaging

Sometimes after these treatments, the day spa clients would leave looking as if some of their wrinkles had magically been erased and their skin a “healthy” pink. However, this was due to inflammation causing volume by temporary swelling to the area. Even though the treatments gave them that temporary plumping, it actually made their skin worse in the long term due to chronic low grade inflammation.

Healthy Aging

I believe that you need to give your skin proper nutrition and support to perform at its optimal level. What we are feeding our skin internally is just as important as what we put on it topically. It's so important to eat healthy foods that are low in inflammation to maintain healthy and glowing skin. And of course, a good night’s sleep, lowering your stress levels, and consistently using SPF every day are all crucial in supporting healthy skin. I know I've said it before, but seriously, if you're not going to protect your skin with SPF, then what's the point of all the effort you're putting into eating well and using the right skincare products? So, let's not forget the importance of sunscreen in our skincare routine!

Here are some of Love My Rosie Skin’s recommendations for non-inflammatory products:

Cleanse Without Inflammation:

Demarrer - GF CO2 Cleansing Foam - This is my very favorite morning cleanser!  The Demarrer is so fun to use and it makes my morning cleanse so enjoyable with its bubbles and soft gentle foam.  Suitable for all skin as it is acne safe and great for sensitive skin. Hydrating and contains EGF for cell recovery.  This is a huge bottle and since I used it only in the morning it last me well over a year!  

Nighttime cleansers:

So many different choices!

Number one oil cleanser is Cellpure Cleansing Oil.  Acne safe and a lovely natural citrus scent.  One to two pumps to cleanse your face, neck and décolleté.  It will remove your sunscreen and all makeup.  I do love to use just a bit first on my eyelashes to remove mascara before cleansing my face.  Cleanses and leaves skin feeling nourished.  

If you love a good jelly cleanser then this one by Orbis is the one to choose.  It is acne safe and gives a lovely cold sensation on the skin.  It effectively removes your sunscreen and makeup.  I love the way it makes my skin feel clean and soft  but not stripped at all.

Another top favorite is the Thesera Perfect Double Pearl Pack Cleanse. This one is loaded with pearl powder, amino acids, green tea and other extracts work to cleanse, brighten and nourish one’s skin. It has microbubbles that feel amazing on the skin and it is very effective to remove makeup, sunscreen and the days debris without damaging the skin barrier. 

A fan fav is BelMondo’s amino acid cleansing mousse. Just like the Demarrer cleansing foam this one has gorgeous superfine bubbles that gently removes all the sunscreen and daily debris leaving the skin more hydrated.  

Favorite Anti-Inflammatory Essences:

The Cellpure Moisture Lotion is my ride or die essence!  It is acne safe and perfection for all skin types. Gives your skin an immediate dose of hydration with added human ceramides and cholesterol.

VEGETOLOGY Viniferine Water Essence  I love to layer this with my cellpure!  It is acne safe, brightens your skin , gives hydration and chock full of the highest percentage of viniferine of any product for the best healthy aging.  The viniferine is 62% stronger than vitamin C.

Favorite Anti-Inflammatory Serums to Support and Transform Your Skin:

Purcell peptide. Acne safe
This is a beautifully formulated and patented product.  Stacked with peptides, collagen to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Helps with boosting collagen, elasticity, and firmness with a gorgeous radiant glow.  Super light weight serum that would be your first serum to apply after cleansing. 

Cellpure extra collagen Acne safe
This serum is enriched with a triple helix collagen that is similar to human skin. Gives extra firmness and elasticity.

Corthe Bifida Ampoule Acne safe

This serum strengthens the skin’s barrier with a scientifically proven probiotic.  It also increases hydration, promotes collagen synthesis, improves skin texture.

Iunik Beta Glucan serum Acne Safe

This serum is perfection for reducing inflammation and redness.  It also strengthens the barrier, soothes and increases hydration.  

Neogenesis Beta-Glucan Serum Acne safe
Another serum with three ampoules to deliver intensive recovery for severely impaired skin barriers.  Boosts skin call proliferation and encourages collagen and elastin synthesis. Soothing and calming to irritated skin. Helps to calm inflammation and increase hydration.

Epicutis Lipid Serum Acne safe
This serum is patented anti inflammatory, also increases hydration, calms, decreases redness and fights collagen breakdown. 

Rejuran Turnover Ampoule Acne safe
Calms and rejuvenates damaged skin.  Supports natural collagen production and increases hydration.  Improves the appearance of lines, wrinkles and scarring. Contains the highest level of PDRN available.

epii - HPT6 Ultra Drop 10% not acne safe
This is an intense firming serum that boosts  the skins elasticity.  It strengthens the skin barrier, increase hydration and stimulates collagen production.

Dear, Klairs - EGF Blue Youth Activating Drop. Acne safe

Calms, soothes stressed out skin quickly.  Improves elasticity and improves the  strength of the skin barrier.  It also reduces blemishes and evens out the skin tone. 

Pfect-A NMN+ NAD+ Serum Acne safe
This is an ideal serum for addressing those signs of aging as it works at the cellular level to energize and support cellular regeneration.  Strengthens the barrier and increases hydration.  Skin is smoother and brighter.

KOPHER - Curepair Derma Ampoule Acne safe
This ampoule has a patented ingredient called Derma-Clear that has anti inflammatory effects, antibacterial and demodex mite removal so perfect for roasacea clients.  It also brightens, hydrates  and strengthens the skin’s barrier.  

Silisca Cicatries Vial - COPPER TRIPEPTIDE-1 VIALS 8.0 Acne safe
Perfect support for the compromised, weakened skin barrier.  The peptide is known to help support the skin’s resilience, elasticity, and firmness.  Calms redness, sensitivity and provides deep hydration. 

Dr.Reju-All - Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum Acne safe
This serum helps to repair damaged skin and delivers firmer skin, more elasticity and deep hydration. 

Sheet Masks That Don’t Create Inflammation:

Bel Mondo Moisture Renewal Masks for Oncology Spa Services Acne safe
Formulated to hydrate and soothe compromised skin. It does not contain any artificial fragrances, parabens, dyes. 

I'm from - Mugwort Mask Acne safe
This mask soothes, provides deep hydration and refines skin texture. 

Her Hyness Instant Refine Platinum Mask Acne safe
Soothes and hydrates while supporting the skin barrier, reduces redness, brightens, fades acne marks. Has PHA that gently exfoliates.  Contains a super antioxidant that protects skin cells from damage caused by UV exposure, stress, pollution and free radicals.

Her Hyness Instant Balance Platinum Mask Acne safe
This mask is chock full of pre/pro/postbiotics helps to balance the skin microbiome, strengthens the barrier and protects the microbiome from UV damage. Contains encapsulated ceramide to lock in moisture and reinforce the skin barrier. 

Her Hyness Instant Youth AOX Platinum Mask  Not acne safe although only has one ingredient that has a very low comedogenic rating. 

This mask contains nano platinum and a powerful serum to boost collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, restore skin elasticity and promotes firmer skin. There is also zinc to reduce oil and minimize pores.

Rejuran Turnover Mask
This mask is powered with the patented Rejuran PDRN.  Soothing, nurturing and calms irritated skin and support the natural healing processes.  

Favorite SPF:

Before I share my favorite sunscreens, we need to talk about how to use them. I've always said the best sunscreen is the one you'll actually wear, but there's more to it than that.

Most of my clients aren't using enough sunscreen, and many aren't reapplying at all. That means they aren't getting the protection on the label, which raises their risk of premature aging, sunburn, and skin cancer. Here's how to get it right:

Use it every single day. UV exposure adds up, even on cloudy days and short trips outside.

Use enough.

• Face: about ¼ teaspoon, or a nickel-sized dollop.
• Face, ears, and neck: about ½ teaspoon total. An easy way to measure is the three-finger rule: squeeze a line of sunscreen along the full length of your index, middle, and ring fingers.
• Décolleté: add about two more finger lengths. The skin on the neck and chest is thinner than on the face and often shows sun damage early, yet so many of my clients skip it.
• Full body: about 1 ounce, or a full shot glass.
  

Apply it ahead of time. Put chemical sunscreens on about 15 minutes before heading outside so they can absorb and form a protective layer. Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) work right away.

Reapply. Reapply at least every two hours, and right after swimming, heavy sweating, or towel drying.

Now that we've covered the basics, here are my favorites.

Her Hyness Hexapeptide Anti Aging Super Dry Touch Sunscreen 
Beyond protection, it's packed with ingredients for healthy aging. Acetyl hexapeptide helps renew and smooth the skin's surface for a luminous look. It also contains Solatemis (sechium edule fruit extract), a plant-derived ingredient that visibly reduces photoaging symptoms for that youthful glow.

I've reviewed the ingredient deck, and I mark this sunscreen as acne safe. It's also formulated for sensitive skin.

The feel is what sold me. It's so lightweight you almost forget you're wearing sunscreen, with a super dry touch and a non-greasy finish. Makeup goes on beautifully over it, almost like a primer.

I've worn it since early summer, and it really got its test during 10 days in Hawaii. I applied the full amount as directed and reapplied every couple of hours in direct sun. I didn't tan at all, and remember, a tan is actually skin damage from sunlight.

Tip: This formula uses chemical filters, so apply it about 15 minutes before heading outside.

Naris Up - by365 Powdery UV Cream NO COLOR SPF 50+ PA++++
SPF 50+ and water resistant
Fragrance free, alcohol free, and paraben free
Weightless, powdery-matte feel
Pore-blurring finish that doubles as a makeup base
Skin types
I've reviewed the ingredient deck and mark this sunscreen as acne safe. It has worked well for all skin types. Whether my clients are oily or lipid dry like me, they are loving this sunscreen.

My experience
I've used this sunscreen for about half a year, and I really tested its limits in Hawaii this summer. After 10 days in the water, I didn't tan or burn, and remember, a tan is actually skin damage from sunlight. It lived up to its water resistance claims.

Tip: This formula uses chemical filters, so apply it about 15 minutes before heading outside, and reapply at least every two hours and after swimming, sweating, or towel drying.

My top two favorite body sunscreens are by Beauty of Joseon one is a mineral and the other chemical sunscreen.  

Beauty of Joseon - Hydra Shield Body Sun Lotion
This chemical sunscreen is my favorite in all of my 65 years. It applies easily, feels weightless, and leaves no white cast. My skin felt hydrated but never greasy, with a nice glow. I've always dreaded putting sunscreen on my body because it was so hard to work in and I'd worry about missing spots. This one made that a non-issue.

I put it to the test for 10 days in Hawaii this summer, and it delivered on every claim. I never tanned or burned, and tanning is really just skin damage from UV rays. It's formulated with Beauty of Joseon's exclusive fermented brown rice to hydrate and nourish, and you can feel the hydration. It also contains ceramides to protect the skin barrier and nourish dry skin. This one is acne safe!

Tip: apply 15 minutes before going out in the sun, and reapply every 2 hours.

Beauty of Joseon - Comfort Protection Mineral Body Sun Lotion

Best mineral body SPF I've ever used!

I've never had a mineral sunscreen melt into my skin so effortlessly without leaving it feeling dry. Beauty of Joseon formulated this with their exclusive fermented brown rice and panthenol to hydrate and nourish the skin.

I put it through a thorough test in Hawaii this summer, with family members helping me check that it lived up to its claims, and it delivered on every one. It was water resistant, easy to spread, and not drying at all. None of us burned or tanned, and as we all know, a tan is actually a sign that the skin has been damaged.

 

As always, you can reach out to me for a complimentary custom skin care analysis and custom ritual just for you!